Few things are as instantly recognizable as sumo wrestling, with its powerful athletes and minimal attire. After nearly a decade of watching sumo on television, I finally experienced a Grand Sumo Tournament in Tokyo, Japan. For those new to the sport or those looking to attend their first tournament, this guide covers how to get tickets, what to expect, the best seating options, and tips for first-time visitors.
Introduction to Sumo
Japan’s national sport of sumo is a blending of athleticism, tradition, and religion. It’s been practiced in one form or another for 2,000 years, originally as a Shinto ritual to entertain the gods in return for a good harvest. Modern sumo dates to 1925 when the Japan Sumo Association (JSA), the sport’s all-powerful governing body, was formed.
The Rules of Sumo
The rules of sumo are fairly straightforward. Two wrestlers (or rikishi) enter the 15.9-foot ring (or dohyo). When both wrestlers are ready, they charge each other in what’s known as the tachiai. The first wrestler to leave the ring or touch the ground with anything other than the soles of their feet loses.
Officially, there are 82 different techniques a winning rikishi can use to defeat his opponent. For example, there’s Oshidashi, a frontal push-out.
Most matches last only a few minutes. However, before and after each match, several traditions tied to religion take place, such as purifying the ring by tossing salt onto the dohyo. (It’s worth noting that because of the religious connections, women are not allowed to participate in professional sumo or even enter the dohyo. There is, however, an active amateur league for female sumo rikishi.)
Wrestlers are ranked within six divisions, and the JSA promotes and demotes by merit. The highest division, which all wrestlers aspire to, is Makuuchi; the lowest division is the Jonokuchi.
Sumo Basics
A few basics about sumo. First: that famous hairstyle. The wrestlers wear a top-knot hairstyle. Particularly in the lower divisions, you may see wrestlers without the top knot as their hair isn’t quite long enough.
Top-division rikishi wear a kesho-mawashi during the ring entry ceremony which occurs before the bouts. These large aprons are ceremonial only and typically have a very graphic design, some with an advertisement for a sponsor. During the bouts, the wrestlers wear a silk mawashi loin cloth. For the lower-division wrestlers, the mawashi is black; upper-division wrestlers can choose the color of their mawashi. Silk strings, or sagari, hang from the mawashi belt but are detachable and commonly come off during a bout.
Grand Sumo Tournament
The JSA holds six tournaments a year, giving rikishi in the top division the chance to lift the Emperor’s Cup trophy. The January, May, and September tournaments are held in Tokyo, while March is in Osaka, July is in Nagoya, and November is in Fukuoka. Each tournament spans 15 days and every competing rikishi will be scheduled for a bout on each day of the tournament—unless a wrestler’s opponent withdraws, granting him a day off.
Tournament days start in the late morning with the lower divisions. By mid-afternoon, the top divisions take to the dohyo, and the events conclude around 6:00 PM. Matchups are determined every few days and occur across division lines.
Attending the Grand Sumo Tournament in Tokyo
Attending a sumo tournament was a bucket list item for my husband and me, so we planned our trip to Tokyo around one of the three annual tournaments. Experiencing it in person was just as exciting as we’d imagined.
When & Where Are the Tokyo Sumo Tournaments
Tokyo hosts the Grand Sumo Tournaments at the Ryogoku Kokugikan in January, May, and September.
In addition to the arena, Tokyo’s Ryogoku district is worth exploring. There are touches of sumo everywhere, from the manhole covers, statues, and the local train station which has large-scale photos and a souvenir shop.
Best Seats for Watching Sumo at Ryogoku Kokugikan
At the Ryogoku Kokugikan, there is no bad seat. Every seat offers a clear view of the dohyo. Picking the right seat for you is a matter of your budget and seating preference.
There are two floors in the arena.
- The ground floor is Japanese-style box seating (Masu) that accommodates up to four people on cushions.
- The upper floor of the stadium offers standard tiered chair seating.
- There are also coveted ring-side seats (Tamari) immediately around the dohyo; these tickets are hard to come by and come with a slight risk: if a rikishi falls off the dohyo, he may land in these front-row seats.
My husband and I shared a 4-seat Box B, which provided ample room for our winter jackets and belongings. It provided an excellent view.
For those who may not be able or used to sitting on the floor for extended periods, it can get uncomfortable. Box seats also require the removal of shoes.
How to Buy Grand Sumo Tournament Tickets in Tokyo
Oosumo is the official JSA organization for purchasing tournament tickets. However, with the return of in‑person events and an increase in tourism to Japan, tickets now sell out within minutes.
Consequently, many foreign visitors purchase tickets through middlemen, like BuySumoTickets.com or Klook. I used BuySumoTickets to preorder our tickets—specifying our desired date and seating preferences several months before the official release. The tickets were delivered directly to my hotel in Tokyo, and we received our preferred date and seating. (This post isn’t sponsored; I’m simply a happy customer.) Although the JSA discourages using third‑party services, my experience with BuySumoTickets was extremely positive. Even so, due to high demand, using a third‑party service does not always guarantee your first‑choice date or seating.
Below are the base ticket prices when bought directly from Oosumo.
| Seating Type | Price (approx.) | Best For |
| Ringside (Tamari-seki) | ¥20,000 | Up-close action, sumo purists |
| Box Seats (Masu-seki) | ¥19,000-60,000 | Groups, traditional experience |
| Arena Chair Seats | ¥2,500-9,500 | Budget-friendly comfort |
What to Expect at a Grand Sumo Tournament
From the moment you arrive at the Ryogoku Kokugikan, the excitement is palpable. A taiko drummer in a tall tower sets a steady rhythm that draws spectators in, and you might even pass some arriving rikishi on the street!
My advice is to arrive early. Lower‑division matches start shortly after the doors open, and concessions open soon after. Although the concourse can become very busy, there’s plenty to see and do.
Inside the arena, you’ll find the Sumo Museum, which is open exclusively to tournament attendees. Various exhibits, photos, and memorabilia are on display throughout the building. On the west side, a small outdoor area is cordoned off for fans to gather and watch the rikishi as they arrive and depart. It’s thrilling to watch the athletes and their attendants make the long walk from the street amid photographers and enthusiastic fans.
Several souvenir stands throughout the arena offer a mix of items—from official programs and snack foods to tegata (sumo handprint autographs) and other memorabilia. On the ground floor, you’ll also find gachapon (capsule toy) machines filled with various rikishi merchandise; upstairs, a claw machine offers a fun challenge.
Keep your eyes peeled: in addition to catching a glimpse of a rikishi arriving, you might also encounter retired wrestlers working for the JSA. Often dressed in navy blue jackets and still sporting a topknot (if they haven’t yet had their official retirement ceremony), these former athletes assist at souvenir stalls or help guide spectators to their seats.
What to Eat at Ryogoku Kokugikan
The Kokugikan concession stands offer a wide range of food options. You can find bento boxes—similar to those at Shinkansen stations—with various options such as fish or beef, as well as boxes of yakitori, or grilled chicken skewers. The stands also offer packaged snacks like cookies and candy.
In the arena’s basement, you can experience a true taste of sumo life with a bowl of Chankonabe (or Chanko stew). This hearty stew, a staple in a rikishi‘s diet, features a clear broth filled with tofu, vegetables, and other nourishing ingredients.
Tips for First-Time Visitors to a Sumo Tournament
- Respect sumo etiquette – Similar to a baseball game, avoid getting up or walking in the aisles during a bout. Remain seated when at your seat.
- Dress comfortably – Box seats require sitting on the floor.
- Cheer respectfully – Get caught up in the excitement as it builds for each bout and applaud the rikishi. But don’t heckle.
- No outside food or drink – Don’t bring outside food or drink into the arena. Food and drinks are available in the arena.
- Arrive early – While you don’t have to arrive early, especially if you aren’t a big sumo fan, I would encourage it. In addition to beating the crowds and settling in early, you’ll get a taste of sumo!
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All photos and opinions are my own. This post contains affiliate links.
